Computer model calculation

 

 

 

 

 

A pick with two tiny cracks (arrows), danger of breakage on the next long ice climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

Noticeable crack that was discovered by the owner just before the next ice tour.

Pick fractures do not occur when they are impacted, i. e. not when the pick is set in the ice with a strong impact, not even when    it hits rock, nor during the subsequent load of the body weight. Pick fractures occur when releasing the ice tool from the ice.

They are fatigue fractures, as they occur also with crampons. When removing from the ice, flat picks are subject to torsional      loads, and semi-circular picks to bending loads which, depending on how extreme the loads are, can lead to overstressing. Over time, it comes to tiny cracks in the tooth base, which slowly become larger and larger with further loads, until it finally comes to a break.

Endangered is always only the area of the tooth base, because in this area is the smallest pick cross-section; a crack cannot originate from the tooth itself. Therefore, the tooth base of all teeth - especially the edges - should be visually checked after each ice tour, especially in the front pick area.

Source: bergundsteigen 4/03

In order to reduce the stress peaks at the critical points, we have developed compensation openings, which serve

for longer life of the pick. 

 

 

 

Stress history can be estimated from main stress or "Von Mises stress" using Pro-ENGINEER computer modeling software.

   Aim of the investigation:

To determine whether metal stresses are evenly distributed in the test specimen under lateral torsion stress or whether certain areas are particularly stressed.

   For a better overview, two identical ice picks are calculated with and without openings.

Bergsport-Steinle 18NOMV5-E icepick for Petzl Nomic / Quark / Ergonomic axes

Test Description:

Ice pick top (17NOMV1-E) is fixed in the solid body.

Force F = 10 kg (in normal cases, very rare side load when ice climbing) is initiated at the pick grip. Stress in the test piece is calculated and displayed as a color scheme.

  Test result after a few calculation minutes:

Ice pick completely closed

Ice pick with openings

Stress peaks at the critical points. (Red color representation)

Evaluation of Results:

When calculating the picks, that should serve as a practical example for the introduction in the GSA (Generative Structural Analysis), it was found that the critical stresses are distributed at the several points from the expansion chuck to the tip of the pick.

*The illustrated graphics show the critical stress nodes that does not occur in classic mountaineering

We would be very happy about your opinion!

Certified to EN-13089

 

 

The type examination was carried out by the testing institute of the mechanical engineering industry SZU (notified body 1015).

 

Certificate Number:

J-32-20265-18

We want to convince you!

Wir wollen Sie Überzeugen!

Only with us you get in a product:

 

 

 

3-year warranty on factory fault and material defects.

 

Details to the warranty can be found in the enclosed instructions for use.

Our guarantee promise

Be a part of our satisfied clients

"These picks are near indestructible for drytooling, amazing quality. They will outlast the stock ones several times over."
Will Gadd, professional Ice climber, Mountain guide, established the hardest ice and mixed routes in the world, Climbed the frozen Niagara falls as the first person ever.
Photo: Instagram/realwillgadd, http://willgadd.com/
"Clean, strong and impressive steel...greater reach & clearance with a larger more defined tip/end that will be easier to maintain and sharpen. Absolutely fantastic engineering and manufacturing!"
Jim Clarke , Skier and experienced Ice- / Mixedclimber. 
"I love these Picks!!! They bite into rock and stick into ice better than anything I’ve used!!! Amazing product!"

"I have 3 different pairs of picks and two pairs of front points and can’t get enough of this stuff. It’s just light years ahead of any other product."

Andres Beregovich, Alpinist, professional Photographer and Blogger 

"A great pick design for all-around use with strong material, made to last and to crank hard!"

Gaetan Raymond, High class Drytooler and an allround Alpinist. 
Website: www.gaetanraymond.com
„Michael - thanks for recommending this file to me. True - the picks need very little maintenance but if and when they do a regular file is lost on this armor steel. This one works miracles. Cool stuff“.
Reid Kalmus, Snowboarder and passionated Iceclimber.
Martin Birkmann, Bad ass Iceclimber and one of our first customers!

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